The RoofStang: 1966 Ford Mustang
If you ever find yourself selling a Mustang Coupe that has been converted to a Fastback shape with a custom rear glass hatchback/liftback setup, what is the one angle you should take a photo from? Yes…you got it right, from the rear 3/4 view. Aim for at least one nice isometric photo showing what this thing looks like from the back — you don’t need to go to the lengths that these guys in this CNET article recommend, but at a bare minimum, you need to take a photo of the back end with your dirty thumb covering the license plate. But…here we are…with an inline-6 powered Mustang with spare Type F fluid in the trunk because the transmission leaks and $15k in paint/body, dozens of un-installed parts (including an SVO Turbo and a 30 shot of nitrous) a custom roof/tail/lift/sunroof like we’ve never seen before and not one full picture of the rear end. It could have an airbrushed Aztec-inspired landscape on the back for all we know…and WE WANT TO KNOW! Find this 1966 Ford Mustang offered for $15,900 in Silverlake, CA via craigslist.
From the seller:
1966 Ford Mustang
cylinders: 6 cylinders
paint color: white
title status: clean
1966 one-of-a-kind, custom designed mustang Shelby tribute fastback conversion, with a functioning rear liftback with a panoramic glass roof.
Over $15,000 in body work alone. All steel reinforced fiberglass side panels, floor/trunk panels and a removable backseat. New front valance, We just sanded the car down and painted it this past summer with Dupli-Color Primer, Championship White and Blue Racing Stripes. Went over with ooseveral coats of Dupli-Color clear coat and enamel. Car was painted and striped here home and it shows a lil bit. But it is heads and shoulders above the paint job it had when I bought it that was likely done with Whimbleton White Rattlecans. Huge difference maker.
Rebuilt 250 cu inch inline 6 cylinder from a 68 Ford Falcon installed by Willard Automotive last summer, less than 300 miles on it. I only had a 1.9 mile commute to work on an ABC series last year. And that’s about the only place I drove it.
C4 transmission was rebuilt, replaced vacuum modulator valve, dipstick, kickdown cable…needs a new pan gasket, it’s got a slow drip…maybe didn’t get a good seal when it was rebuilt/installed last sept. . I keep type F auto transmission fluid in the trunk. .
New radiator, belts, water pump, thermostat and hoses.
New motor mounts.
brand new carb.
edlebrock performance air filter,
new exhaust manifold
New under engine wiring harness and gauge feed.
New battery, battery tray, battery cables, auto kill switch to negative terminal, ground wires, distributor, plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor, points and condenser
new ignition switch, and tumbler
New headlight switch.
NewTurn signal switch and turn signals.
New headlights and rings.
New Taillight assembly’s, with lenses, bezel and brackets.
new license plate light and bracket.
New Spectrum gas tank, sending unit, gas cap, fill tube, fuel line and fuel filter,
All new brake system, drums, lugs, shoes, new wheel bearings, new spindles, hardware, Master cylinder, front
brake lines, Distribution block, brake switch, harness, pedal, booster, et al.
Rebuilt rearend with new pinion gear, leaf springs, emergency brake.
Some new suspension parts, ball joints are new, still need to install tie rod ends (I have em), idler arm and rear shocks, I replaced lower control arm on driver’s side when I did the brakes. ..
new brake switch.
New exhaust system cherry bomb glass pack, straight front pipe off a 2” header, running out to a side tail pipe behind passenger door/rocker.
Rebuilt engine has less than 300 miles on it. I do have a new pertronix II igniter, coil and pertronix power relay so you don’t have to bypass pink resistor wire under dash. I haven’t put it on yet…been meaning to. CJ Pony sent wrong igniter and I finally got the correct one…but points and condenser are brand new…so I’m leaving em in for now.
-I have a turbo charger from an 84 SVO with down pipe, custom-madebrackets for mounting – oil lines and wastegate retro fit for the air intake and dual custom header/manifold – the turbo charger is mounted under the hood. But I haven’t hooked it up since I put the new engine in. It would need a new custom header/manifold. I had it hooked up on old engine and it cracked the header. Al’s Turbo can machine one for about $400…. Set up will ya a lot more get up and go with with tuning around 8 lbs of boost…don’t want too much more with current engine build. You’d also need to put an MSD electronic fuel pump on it for turbo. But I had the brackets machined at Song’s Automotive in Silverlake to mount the turbo charger. So I just bolted it in and didn’t hook it up when new engine was put in. Frankly, the Accel High Output Coil and straight pipe along with 30hp nitrous boost give it plenty of low end torque and power.
That said, with the glass roof, liftback and all the fiberglass body panels, the car doesn’t weigh nearly as much as your average fastback, and the straight 6 has plenty of low end torque and a nice power to weight ratio. Would have liked to do he disc brake conversion, dual bowl master cylinder and have yet to install he edlebrock 30hp concealed nitrous kit for carbureted engines I got for my b’day in June.
As for interior, mostly done.
-New dash pad from CJ Pony parts.
-New Arm Rests from CJ Pony Parts.
new sun visors from Scott Drake
-Bose Stereo with Bluetooth, USB, CD etc. You can even record a podcast while you drive with a built-in-mic and recorder.
-Two Bose 4.5” dash speakers.
new body glove seat covers on front seat(secured in with the metal seat brackets).
-custom made cigarette lighter port that runs on a solar charger hidden under the cowl vent. 1.5 watt Solar panel charges a bank of 8 AA rechargeable batteries mounted under dash. It’s pretty cool. You can also redirect solar panel to trickle charge the battery if you are going to leave it sit parked for extended duration.
-Carpet is new inside. Carpet in trunk is not and showing its age a little. But not too bad.
-Rear view mirror vintage…but new.
passenger side mirror vintage…new glass.
courtesy lights, parking lights
shifter lever, is all new and Scott Drake.
-Custom fit headliner with overhead retractable sun shades to keep heat out from glass roof.
All gauges and lights work except oil pressure. Needs a wiring adapter for the connection on the aftermarket new under dash wiring harness to fit sensor on side of block…been meaning to do that. But it worked fine before the engine swap, so I’m sure that hasn’t changed.
transmission linkage needs adjusting. Drives and shifts great. After we swapped out the new motor, it can’t find Park. It had park before the engine swap, so the parking pawl is fine. Just needs adjusting. I just keep it in Neutral and put the parking brake on. If you’re parking on a hill, I’d definitely turn the wheels into the curb.
Tires are about 50% tread on front, lil less on rear. I have a mis-matched extra set of wheels and tires if you want em, I’ll throw em in.
I have front seat belts…haven’t installed them yet. The rear seat belts are in. If you want I’ll go ahead and put em in.
new wheel covers (far better look than what was on it before).
The parking brake was recently replaced and fixed but it needs tightening at rear drum tensioner – it works fine on flat ground or even small inclines. I wouldn’t trust it on a big hill. As said, Parking pawl does not currently engage…I leave it in gear and put on parking brake and sometimes toss a rubber tire chalk I keep in the back seat or next to fire extinguisher.
-Needs a new neutral safety switch, I bypassed it for now jumping the in and out harness into firewall. as of now, it’ll start in any gear and no reverse lights…but the car doesn’t have any reverse lights either. Just the light above the plate under bumper.
Could probably use a new pitman arm or lower tie rod ends. It pulls a little to the right when braking. I have the new tie rod ends. I’ll try and get em put on this weekend.
-the windshield has a small crack in the upper corner of driver’s side.
cowl vent cover to keep water out.
if you wanted to put the turbo charger on, i have a few guys who can do it for $400 bucks. they rebuilt and replaced my 84 SVO turbo in 2017…I’ve got the turbo kit next to the tire iron and bottle jack in rear side compartment along quarter panels under lift gate. If so inclined, to keep the turbo and nitrous infused 6 cyl..go to classic inlines website and order a tri-carb set-up with an aluminum head coupled with cat back dual exhaust…add the 20-30hp edlebrock nitrous kit for $320 bucks. That said, you already have one helluva fun ride.
This car is one unique butterfly. Drive it home, she’s super fun to drive, not too heavy in the front. Strong running engine…quite torquey and certainly a one of a kind classic to be sure…put a few more grand into her and she’ll be a $30k restomod/Shelby tribute. Oh yeah, . I also have a power brake booster and dual bowl master cylinder and a few other parts i have not had time to put on as I’m building a new home after losing our last place out near Big Bear to fire damage…selling this car breaks my heart, but we gotta finish the house and I’m still not workin due to covid film and tv production shut down.
Email, Call or text for more info and to come check out my 66 Glassback.
As is, where is, cash in person…reasonable offers considered. Do not need help selling it. She speaks for herself. Super fun car to drive and for a lot less money than a 2+2 fastback. I call her The Glassback and she’s tons of fun to drive. Lots of low end torque. Great daily driver around the city or go for cruises on the weekends.
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So much time and money invested, but in the wrong areas. Very likely could have just found a factory fastback instead for whatever he spent in total. This is not prettier and it’s nowhere near a Shelby in any capacity. But, with the amount of work done to it, it’s not an outrageous price if it holds up to scrutiny in person. Still, if this was something I wanted, I’d hope to negotiate down by a couple grand.
It’s got a solar powered cigarette lighter/trickle charger!