Restmod Needs Engine: 1969 Ford Mustang Coupe

You know that I’m a sucker for classic Mustangs, but I’m also a sucker for a good deal. What happens when those two combine into a single vehicle…ohhh yeah. This next car isn’t’ a fastback, but it does have disc brakes all the way around plus $15k in parts and labor to make it a restomod that just needs a new engine. That might sound like a bad proposition, but the cost of a good paint job is nuts these days, so I’d rather a car with nice paint that needs a new engine instead of the other way around. Find this 1969 Ford Mustang Coupe offered for $12,000 in Orange County, CA via craigslist.

From the seller:
1969 ford mustang
VIN: 9F01F144048
cylinders: 8 cylinders
delivery available
drive: rwd
fuel: gas
odometer: 53272
paint color: grey
title status: clean
transmission: automatic
type: coupe
Will deliver for free
Open to trades
Clean title, ran as weekend car for last 9 years but suffered an engine failure due to a faulty EFI system. Returned fuel system to carb but engine didnt sound good and I’ve lost the persistence to continue with the swap.
In the last 6 months full exterior repaint and parts of interior were derusted/painted/powdercoated.

Disc brakes all around, and around $15k in parts and labor.
I used a switch board for the last few years, it’s just wired to the normal ignition wires plus a direct to a fuel pump relay to make diagnostics easier.
In order for the car’s total restoration to be complete the following tasks need to be done:Replace motor, reinstall/repair bay
install windshield wipers
install reverse lights
purchase/install trunk lock
install trims (powder coated satin black to match new rims)
install front headlights/repair mounts
align front/rear bumpers (just bolted on loose)
align neutral safety switch (it’s a bit overzealous)
Install parking brake if you want it (removed cable a few years back due to it always causing problems with disc brakes)
purchase/install mirrors
rest is interior-related that I’ve never bothered to do like pick up window rollers, kick panels, missing an emblem, and your choice on keeping switches or rewiring ignition switch and returning to oem center dash.Great car for someone who has mechanical inclination and wants to avoid the lengthy restoration process.
Engine serial number is illegible but shop said it was a 302 from early 80’s. Performance 289 intake manifold/carb and fully rebuilt transmission around 5k miles ago.

See a better way to drive something interesting? tips@dailyturismo.com
After reading an article about a kid who swapped in a Honda K24 last week, damn if I don’t want this just so I could 2JZ or something else to piss off the purist crowd. Alas $12k starting price is preventing me from my automotive trolling dreams.
https://www.autoevolution.com/news/teenager-s-1966-mustang-packs-jdm-surprise-under-the-hood-blasphemy-on-a-whole-new-level-180544.html?
For those interested in the K24 swap article.
Speaking of K24 swaps 🙂
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT5-9ei9P60
I’ve seen this one, I don’t know why but things like this make me grin from ear to ear. Yeah, I prefer the flat 6 noise and what not, but damn if a K swap would be reliable if you can get it in there and setup. I’ve never done an engine swap myself and honestly would be in way over my head attempting one, but damn if I don’t want one. I thought about it for my Miata but figured I could afford and complete a turbo build more easily.
“Engine serial number is illegible”
That’s going to cause problems eventually.