Killed B: 1983 Audi quattro

“Ur” is German prefix that in one of it’s meanings is original, primitive or proto-.  Such as Ur + shrift (document) is Urshrift or original document.  The Audi cognoscenti a few years ago began to refer to the original “small q” quattro of the early 80’s as the Ur-quattro.  The Ur-quattro was a ground breaking car that changed the face of rallying, ushering in the all wheel drive revolution. Original quattro values have been ascendant, so here’s your chance to pay pennies on the dollar for a significant car that has a few needs.  Find this 1983 Audi quattro for sale in Seattle, WA for $15,000 via craigslist.

I could write a bit about the car, but the seller has already published a dissertation-length ad:

“UPDATED with interior pictures


Please read the entire thing before emailing me questions. Serious inquiries only.

Many more pictures in the links at the bottom of the ad.

1983 Audi Quattro (UrQ, UrQuattro, Ur-Quattro, Turbo Quattro Coupe, etc)

Serial DA900204

Build 03/1982

Option codes: D08, R82, 253, 425, 560, 749

Diamond Silver Metallic exterior with Chocolate Brown interior

225k miles

5spd manual

2.1L 10-valve I5 turbo engine

All Wheel Drive with lockable center and rear differential

Clean WA Title in my name

WA collector vehicle plates/registration

If you’re looking at this car you probably know about it, but just in case you don’t here are a few tidbits:  This is a ‘Ur’ Quattro (Ur being the German prefix for original).  The long-wheelbase street homologation version that spawned the famous Quattro rally cars of the Group B era.

This car is 1 of 664 US market UrQ’s imported from ~’83-’85.  These were handbuilt in Ingolstadt on their own line in the Audi factory.  In just over ten years of production, they made ~11,500 Quattros total, worldwide.  For perspective BMW produced ~17k E30 M3’s worldwide in half the time.  Mercedes produced around 24k 2.3/2.5-16 190Es worldwide.

I purchased the car in April 2016 from David Schaible in New York who had owned the car since 2000.  David purchased the car from Bruce Haymann (Karmann Auto Body, rally driver with his brother Greg, driving instructor at Lime Rock). Some of east cost guys will recognize the car, it attended some of the early 2000’s UPG (UrQuattro Preservation Group) events.  Bruce restored the car in the late 90’s and did a full respray.  The car living in the NorthEast inevitably still developed some rust the following 15-20 years after the resto.  The paint is in excellent shape still in most places as it spent a lot of its life indoor.  David parked the car in 2007 when the headgasket blew and it sat until I purchased the car.  I hauled the car from New York back to Seattle to start working on restoring it and planned on swapping in a 20vt AAN engine instead of rebuilding the stock 10vt engine.  I dove in deep to fix the car right and not just the quickest way, thus I have pretty much fully disassembled the car, but have boxed up everything that I took off.

I spent the better part of a year searching for UrQuattros for sale and finding one in my price range…they don’t come up for sale often and they rarely come up for cheap.  Prices have finally been going up recently and gaining ground on the less rare BMW’s and Mercedes that have long been selling for more.  Recently I’ve come across an opportunity that requires me to sell this dream car, so that’s how we unfortunately got here.  If you don’t recognize me, I’m an avid Old School Audi enthusiast that’s well respected throughout the community.  I’ve owned 12 different Audis throughout the year and currently own 3 others besides this one.



General notes on the condition:

*Stock WX 10v turbo engine suffered a blown headgasket and the engine sat in a garage with the head off for 10 years with coolant in it.  The block does turnover still though, but needs a rebuild, or at the minimum a hone and new gaskets.  Cylinder head appears to be in good condition, but should be checked for flatness since the headgasket did blow.  Missing exhaust manifold and turbo charger, but I believe everything else is there.  CIS metering head, airbox, igloo, distributor, etc.  Engine is removed from the car and organized in boxes.

*Stock 5spd 016 transmission and rear diff rotate freely and shift into all gears.  Fluid should be changed.

*No exhaust. Exhaust shown in a few pictures is NOT included.

*Car is an early 1983 and therefore had the under-dash fusebox instead of the under-hood box like the later cars.  I purchased a later (86/87) Coupe GT body wiring harness and fusebox to swap into this car to upgrade to the later more robust/reliable wiring.  I also have the section of sheetmetal around the GT fusebox so it could be properly grafted into the rain tray of this car.  The new harness has not been installed, but the old harness has been fully removed from the car…so there is currently no wiring at all in the car.

*In order to remove the body wiring harness, the interior has also been completely removed (seats, carpet, dash, HVAC, etc).  Everything is included but is in poor condition.  Carpet is faded and stiff.  Leather seats are hard/cracked/torn.  Dash has cracks and a few holes from a makeshift gauge pod.  Door panels are pretty nice as is the headliner. Interior is now loosely installed to show completion. Front portion of the carpet is a non-shag brown carpet out of an ’85 4kq.

*Fuel tank was drained and surprisingly the 10 year old gas came out clean and not rusty.

*Crack free windshield (these are NLA nowadays) with good surrounds/seals.  Windows are tinted.  Sunroof seal is also in great shape.

*Stock Quad headlights and trim are included.  Very nice taillights and Heckblende.

*Rear spoiler is faded and pealing/cracking.

*No raintray cover…These are now available new from Highland Quattro.

*Driver’s fender had a rust hole in it.  I purchased a very nice used fender and put it on, but it’s red.  I still have the rusty fender and it can be included.

*Hood has provisions for hood struts if you source the brackets and struts…currently just uses the hood prop.

*As I was disassembling the car I put all fasteners into ziploc bags and labeled them.

Now onto the unfortunate part of the car…rust.  Yes it has some, but it’s totally salvageable, but will take some bodywork.  I’m probably over exaggerating things, but I like to be 100% honest when selling a car.

*The car lived most of it’s life in the harsh NorthEast winters.  That said, I’d say it’s very nice for a NY car, especially since it was restored in the 90’s.

*These cars were unfortunately never galvanized and they didn’t have any wheel lines, so pretty much every UrQ is going to have some amount of rust…it’s unavoidable on these cars.

*The rear quarters each have some rust that has formed at the top of the wheel arch.  It has been primered over at some point to keep it from getting worse.  New metal will need to be patched in to fix this properly (or convert to widebody).  There are also a few dents in the quarters from being stored in a small garage for years.

*Underneath the fenders where the wheel well meets the strut tower is the most notorious spot for rust on these cars.  I’ve removed the fenders and a lot of the wheelwell undercoating to find and grind down the rust.  Under the fenders was actually better than I was expecting and wouldn’t be too hard to repair.

*There’s a spot in the engine bay where in the wheelwell was a vacuum accumulator bracket spot welded on the backside.  This bracket rusted and has left a hole into the engine bay.  I’ve got a rust-free section that I cut out of another B2 that I’ll include and will be easy to patch in.

*The AC was deleted at some point, so a plate was installed (RTV’d) in the raintray to block off the AC stuff.  Would be easy to remove that and reinstall AC in the future.

*The car was lightly hit in the front at some point in its life and showed some evidence on the front core support.  I wanted to repair it and entertain making the core support removable for better access to the engine (it’s not removable from the factory and makes it a pain to do timing belts and stuff).  Therefore, I cut out the spot welded on the damaged core support in prep of putting a new one in.  I purchased a near full front clip (from near the strut towers forward) of an Audi 4000 that’s basically the same and planned on using that to repair and make the removable front.  That clip will be included with the car if desired, it’s straight and rust free.

*There’s also some rust inside the car on the floorpan.  I started removing some of the carpet adhesive and wirewheeling the metal in prep for repairing it.

*The rocker panels have a few spots of surface rust but seem otherwise very solid. Some peeling/cracked clear bra on them.

*All of the suspension and underneath brackets have typical surface corrosion.

*Side wells in the trunk have holes in the bottom.

Some upgrades that I can recall:

*H&R springs and I believe Bilstein or Koni dampers, but they’re from the late 90’s early 00’s.

*Zimmerman drilled rotors, I believe stock size and stock calipers.

*Factory rear sway bar since it’s an early ’83

*RARE 15×8 Ronal R8’s…these are getting exceptionally hard to find nowadays.  They’ve been painted or powdercoated black.  Tires have good tread, but are old and should be replaced.  They do hold air and roll just fine but the date codes are early 2000’s

*Momo steering wheel with blue Audi horn button.

*TAP tuned stock 10vt ECU



as it sits with all of the original parts, interior, stock engine, uninstalled upgraded wiring harness/fusebox, 8″ Ronal wheels, and some other spares that I’ve got. 

Price can go down if you don’t want the Ronal wheels or the upgraded wiring/fusebox. I have a set of junk but hold air wheels/tires that I can put on the car if it goes without the Ronals.

ABSOLUTELY NO TRADES! I’m selling this car to purchase another.

You must pickup, I do not have a means to deliver.  The car rolls/steers around and I have a winch we can use to load it onto a trailer. I can help a shipping company load the car if needed, but the car must be paid in full and payment cleared prior to that.

The AAN is currently installed in the car. If it’s not wanted then I would need a few weeks to remove it before it would be ready to go. I will not reinstall the stock engine, it will be included on a dolly.

Located in Seattle, WA

Optional extras that could be included for additional costs (these parts are only available for purchase with the car, I will not sell them separately so please don’t ask):

*~140k mile 2.2L AAN 20v turbo engine from a UrS4.  Complete long block with turbo.  No ECU and no wiring harness.  I have a 3B wiring harness that could be modified (relocate a few pins and convert to COP) to run on an AAN ECU.  I haven’t heard the engine run, so it should be looked over before installing.

*B3 front subframe, B4 forged control arms, B4 2pc front uprights (still with 4×108 hubs), B4 front sway bar to convert from the early stamped control arms and single piece upgrights.

*034 IIc standalone ECU with latest firmware, no wiring harness

*NOS non-AC underhood fusebox rain cowl sheet metal if you wanted to do the fusebox conversion ‘properly’ (and delete AC).  Still would work just fine to cut a hole for the fusebox or patch in the cutout Coupe GT sheet metal provided with the harness.

*Possibly a few more parts/upgrades…I’ll need to look through my inventory and decide what I’m willing to let go of.

Here are current pictures

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Gianni is Daily Turismo’s Pacific Northwest correspondent.