I recently had the opportunity to ride in and drive a late model Caterham kit version of the Lotus 7 that was built by an insane friend and equipped with a 350 horsepower turbocharged GM Ecotech 4-cylinder and 6-speed. Getting into the coffin-shaped passenger compartment was tricky, but acceleration was nothing short of psychotic. At the end of a 45 minute ride through curving coastal California blacktop I felt equal parts impressed, sun-burned, nauseated, and euphoric. I’ve driven some fast cars in my time (SLR McLaren, Z06 C7.R) but this was in its own league in orders of the level of excitement (and NVH) you experience on WOT in 2nd or 3rd gear…so I can only imagine that a Hayabusa 11,000 rpm powered version of the same car should similarly deliver a visceral gut punch of fun. Find this 2011 Lotus Caterham Replica MK Indy here on eBay offered for $22,800 buy-it-now located in Waxhaw, NC.
From the seller:
PLEASE NOTE: This is a Track day Only car, not titled so if you wanted to drive it on the street you would have to apply for a title within your state.
Scroll all the way down to see more Photos…
The original kit was purchased in 2011 from MK Motorsports based in the UK. A spin off that has been building Caterham style Lotus 7 replicas for a couple decades. This is their premium MK Indy R kit. Primarily designed for track use, but has all the components to make it road legal.
The car was completed in 2014 and I have added 412 miles since. All track miles. It has never been titled or licensed for the street (which was my original intention). Partially because after my first trackday it was so quick it scared me half to death thinking of it being on the street.
It’s a blast to drive, screaming to 11,000 RPM and yank on the sequential shifter is an awesome feeling. I love the ability to catch and pass Vettes, GT-R’s and many exotics. Handling, stopping and acceleration are it’s key strengths. Not so much top speed. You can brake literally 2-3 seconds after everyone else and be accelerating out of the corner much earlier. It’s hard to put into words so you should look at the YouTube links provided below.
One the best features of the car is the flatShifter electronics. Once you release the clutch and are moving, you do not have to touch the clutch pedal again for either up shifts or downshifts. On up-shifts the system cuts the ignition for a millisecond (actually sub Millisecond) to relax the transmission and allow the gear to slip to the next one. On downshifts the system will blip the throttle to the correct RPM for Rev Matching (again watch one of the videos listed below). ALL of this is done by just pulling or pushing on the gear leave. It absolutely rocks…
So why am I selling it?
Unfortunate it has been parked for the last two years due to a personal injury which prohibited me from using it. Now I’ve moved on to a new project and the wife has demanded one project at a time. I will be sad to see this one go, but its a waste to see it sitting under the cover.
Everything on this car was premium parts. Very little expense was spared. Never added it up, pretty sure it would give me a heart attack. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. The price listed is pretty firm. I know what this car can do and if it doesn’t sell at or very close to the listed price, I’ll simply change the tires and continue to have fun. Realistically its so reliable that usage cost is really just an oil change and maybe a set of plugs.
Length Wheelbase: 93
Height: 3.75 (lowest point) 47 (highest)
Weight (full wet): 1224
Horsepower (at wheel, mustang Dyno): 167 @ 10,000 rpm – See Dyno Sheet photo
949 Racing Wheels 15×7.5 6UL
Chassis & body:
1 x 1 square 4130 Chromoly Steel, extremely rigid
Integrated 6 point roll cage
Flat bottom floor nose to tail
Aluminum floors are powder coated, epoxied to the frame and Riveted (Which contribute to the rigid chassis feel)
Fiberglass body panels, all are removable – The most frequent ones are held on by Zuus and easy off Low Profile button style retainers
Wind deflector Shield (you don’t look through it, but over, it pushes wind over your head) – But I strongly suggest glasses or a full shielded helmet
Independent Front and rear A arm
Spherical bearing joints
Mazda Miata hubs all 4 corners
Front inboard cantilever coilovers
Custom Upper and Lower adjustable A arms
Adjustable bumpsteer (MazdaTRix)
Dual adjustable Pro-Tech shocks
Modified Quick Ratio Ford Sierra Racing Steering Rack and Pinion
Most of the bolts, Unions, Rod Ends are Metric and Stainless Steel – Prepreg Oiled – Non Maintenance
Independent front and rear system
Stainless steel hard lines throughout chassis
Pressure sensor for Data logger (Front brakes only)
All braided stainless lines at flex points
Wilwood UltraLight 4 Piston
11 inch Cross drilled and Vented
Wilwood UltraLight 2. Piston
11 Inch Solid
Tilton 3 pedal floor mounted assembly – https://tiltonracing.com/product/600-series-3-pedal-floor-mount-assembly/
Tilton 3 Chamber Reservoir – https://tiltonracing.com/product/3-chamber-plastic-reservoir/
Tilton Bias adjustment (allows driver to shift brake bias front to rear – installed but never really used it, this thing stops extremely well as is) https://tiltonracing.com/product/standard-remote-brake-bias-adjuster/
2008 Hayabusa with 3412 total Miles (a little under 3000 before it was removed from a fallen bike and placed in the car)
11,000 rpm redline
6 speed sequencial
Coil on plug upgraded – https://energycoil.com/products/hayabusa-1999-2018
Custom wiring harness – https://www.sbdev.co.uk/Hayabusa/hayabusa_wiring_management_systems.htm
SBD Motorsports EFI Throttle Bodies – https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/index.php/products/index/4460
SBD complete dry sump – https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/index.php/products/index/2915
AllStar Dry sump tank with aerator – https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all36096
APE Trac King Super Pro complete upgraded clutch – https://www.hayabusazone.com/clutch.html
APE Upgrade Clutch Heavy Duty Springs
Custom handbuilt stainless headers
Brock Racing muffler
All fluids via AN fittings and braided lines
Shift fork enforcement
Spherical bearing shifter linkage (Not Cable – Direct Spherical bearing links)
SBD Motorsports complete EFI independent throttle Bodies, harness and MBE ecu.
2 quart swirl pot
Magna High Pressure Fuel Regulator
Russell High Pressure Filter
Magna High Pressure Pump
Triple pass Custom Fluidyne radiator
Single pass dual core oil cooler
Custom electronic water pump controlled by Davis Craig digital controller and MBE ECU.
All wiring Connectors are Water Proof
Professionally created wiring Harnesses and Panels – See photos
Race Technology Dash Pro – Displays
Sensor info (Water, Oil, Speed, etc)
Flatshifter Expert – See here for details – https://www.flatshifter.com/flatshifter-expert-quickshifter/
Integrated GoPro wiring and mounts – Think its a total of 3 Go-Pro mounts – Note Does not include Go-Pro’s
MBE ecu from SBD Motorsports – https://www.sbdev.co.uk/Hayabusa/hayabusa_wiring_management_systems.htm
Davis Craig Digital controller for water pump – https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/index.php/products/index/4294
LED Tail lights
Braille Light lithium weight battery
Energycoil Coil on Plug – Super powerful – https://energycoil.com/products/hayabusa-1999-2018
Gear number Display
Innovate MTX-L Wide Band O2 sensor and display
Power Distribution Modules by Rowe Electronics – No fuses in this car – Completely managed by PDM
This thing is awesome – The car has two – One which is always on and a second which is ignition triggered
Allows you to program the amperage per circuit and what it should do when it experiences a short.
Simple to trouble shoot and to reset a short, simply turn power off and on
There is a microphone wired into the car that can be used with a go pro. Its low enough to avoid wind noise.
6 speed sequential: Suzuki with Modifications
Ford Cosworth 7″ differential
Quaife Ford Sierra 7″ ATB Helical LSD Differential – https://shop.quaife.co.uk/ford-sierra-7-inch-quaife-atb-helical-lsd-differential
No clutches to replace – Really good traction off the corner
Custom lightweight driveshaft by Driveshaft Shop https://www.driveshaftshop.com
Custom lightweight halfshafts- https://www.driveshaftshop.com
Jaxsport Reverse box – (if you look at the photos you will see a small knob right behind the shifter stick)
Spare Ring and Pinion – ratio is better for higher speed (see Spares list below)
SBD Billet Clutch Center – https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/index.php/products/index/962
Heavy Duty Shift Shafts – https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/index.php/products/index/1882
Flat bottom nose to tail
Aluminum removable Floor panel for Engine Bay
Aluminum Diffuser on the rear can be removed (but it actually works)
Tillett B6-F Carbon Fiber driver seat
Fiberglass passenger seat
Both seats are on slides
2017 OMP 6 point harnesses – Not installed but not included in spares
Sparco Steering wheel, with Quick Release
Heel mounts – Allows you to brace yourself when you hit the brakes (This car stops really hard)
Inside Panels are lightweight plastic
A complete Differential Ring, Pinion and bearings set – Will increase the top speed –
Clutch Alignment tool
Clutch Basket holder (Used to tighten main nut while holding basket steady)
2017 OMP 6 point Harness – The car is fitted with a 5 point Simpson, but it has expired cannot be used on the track
Car Cover – It doesn’t fit anything else I own so I have no use for it
What Missing, Need Replaced, Repaired or suggested Change?
The car pulls strong, but I think more can be gained from tuning, frankly after installing the new ECU and Throttle bodies the car was never tuned. I only ran it on the dyno to make sure it was not running lean and everything worked.
The tires are aged out and should be replaced, they look good but they are over 5 years old
Swapped the differential gear set for a higher top speed, all the parts are there (bearings, Ring and Pinion – see Spares list), just needs to be done.
The Braille Battery is getting old. Still holds a charge, but would be something I would change
The car has always been garaged kept under a cover (Which is included in the spares). It has a few dings from track days, a few rubber marks from rubber on the track, but that’s about. The rear fenders have some small spider cracks from the tires kicking up stones. That wont happen again since I applied an undercoating to protect it.
Frequently Ask Questions:
Maintenance wise, where do I get parts –
I tried to make sure this would be easy for myself
Suspension Hubs – Bearings etc – All Mazda
Brakes – Wilwood (Summit etc)
Engine – Really only spark-plugs and Oil Filters – Both are Suzuki Factory
How do you drain the oil if the engine bay is sealed by the Flat Floor –
The floor under the engine bay has two Removable access panels for oil Changes
Whats the top speed
According to my GPS data-logger 110
Couple YouTube Videos
Compilation of passes (sorry for the mismatch between sound and video, GoPro went wonky that day)
Dyno Day – I had to step back due to stones coming off the rear tires but you will hear how clean the pull sounds.
First Start on new Fuel Injection (before tuning – You gotta see how the engine responds)
Shipping or Delivery:
See a better way to go fast? firstname.lastname@example.org