In the past few years, there has been an interesting shift in where you can find the cheapest used/abused cars on the internet. Craigslist was, for years, the gold standard for finding cheap junk, but they made a small change to limit spammers by charging a few bucks for a listing (back in 2019) and many of the cheapest cars migrated to free-to-list sites like OfferUp and Facebook’s Marketplace. This wasn’t a problem, per se, but I noticed that most Facebash listed cars had very limited info from the seller — just a few sentences usually, a factor driven by the facebook algorithms that convince people to hate their neighbors and feel better about themselves (probably). However, this next car has a long and complete description by the seller AND is offered for a good price. Find this 1977 AMC Pacer X offered for $4000 in Punta Gorda, FL via facelist marketbook. Tip from John W.
From the seller:
1977 AMC pacer x
Listed 24 weeks ago in Punta Gorda, FL
About This Vehicle
Driven 48,000 miles
Exterior color: Brown · Interior color: Brown
This is not just another Pacer DL or shift on the column Pacer. It is a true X with shift-in-the-floor automatic option factory survivor. It has not been modified or half-heartedly restored. It is still an untouched original. It is one of only two I’ve seen in the last seven years with all the original X features: X slot wheels (rare), racing steering wheel, decals, ribbed bucket seats, and most rare, shift in the floor automatic.
It is a very rare gem that needs to be properly restored, and sadly, I do not have the money to do it and need to let it go to someone who can.
It has the AMC 258 six automatic with rear wheel drive tranny. It is a survivor and has not been painted or restored so it still has the original Mocha Brown metallic paint from the factory. It has had new rebuilt rack and pinion steering, starter, water pump, and many original parts replaced as needed. I did replace all belts, ECM, starter, spark plugs, radiator hoses, battery cables, master brake cylinder, brakes, and basic stuff like that, but its proper replacement parts. Engine was remachined by a professional to factory specs. All original vacuum lines and parts are present. There’s little rust on most of the car except a few surface spots. Door jams, rockers, hood, firewall, and common problem areas are in great shape with no rust. Interior is beautiful. No stains, rips, or tears. Dash has no cracks. A common problem area on these cars is the interior trim by the rear windows. The direct sun and heat tend to fade and dry out the trim, so that is the case on some of the rear trim, but most is like new throughout the cabin.
Tires have about approx. 5,000 miles and are still good; however, the rear passenger tire currently started slowly losing air so it needs patched.
The only problem areas:
1) rear lower quarters have one or two through rust spots.
2) It needs front floor pans. There are originals still available from Blaser Auto in Illinois. I think he wanted $200-300 a piece. Regardless – I could weld in sheet metal like some people do, but as soon as I would do that, someone would gripe because it wasn’t original or done right. For the same reason, I don’t want to bondo or do any temporary fixes to rust spots because whomever buys this may want a frame-off restoration and I want to keep it all original. My dad always told me to buy original cars. And I’m not really one to modify original cars. But that’s just me.
3) I included clear pictures of the dents in the passenger side door. It was that way when I bought the car. Both doors function properly and are almost totally rust free.
4) If I was to restore this car, I’d take the bumpers off because the car looks awesome and much better without bumpers. That said, the front bumper is still nice, good chrome, and bump stops, and proper air shocks are on both front and back bumpers; however, rear bumper is rusted from the inside and came through on one end.
5) Other than that, there’s one or two nickle sized surface rust spots on the roof and maybe in a few other spots.
The buyer will also get over $800 worth of parts for the car including driver’s door exterior bumper molding, rack and pinion (core is $350-500 if you sell it on ebay), fuel pump, headlight bezel and more.
If you aren’t prepared to offer what I’m asking, please don’t bother to inquire of the car. I’m asking a very reasonable price compared to others I’ve seen. This is a deal at $4,000, so won’t take a penny less. I also prefer not to sell to anyone who is not prepared to restore the car. I will not sell to demo derby drivers or racers. There’s plenty of Pacer DLs for that, but this one is too rare. Yes, it runs fine, but it needs floor pans and I don’t want anyone driving around without them and getting hurt.
I do need to sell this car to pay for our ministry expenses or I’d be keeping this car because the value has more than doubled on these.
If you’re new to the Pacer market or have any questions, I can answer them. I have studied the Pacer extensively and followed the market on this for over 10 years, keeping detailed records of sales figures. This car restored right now is worth $20,000 minimum. The last true X I saw was five years ago. It was a red ’76 survivor (that needed restored) and it didn’t even have the X wheels and was a shift on the column, not the floor. (Again, you’ll likely never find another X like mine with the X wheels and shift in the floor auto). It sold on ebay for $9,995. So I’m not even asking half that for a superior car. The X wheels alone and rack and pinion core are worth a lot. In another five years or so, you’re looking at $25,000 or more for this car restored. So there’s plenty of meat on the bone for anyone who wants to flip this. And its an absolute steal for a collector.
My wife and I have had a lot of fun in this car and have many memories. You will too as long as you don’t mind all the attention from other drivers.
I don’t want to sell the car, but I feel a rare car like this deserves to be restored and I just can’t afford to do it. I’m praying that the car will get a good new home.
See a better way to drive a perfect 10? firstname.lastname@example.org